![]() ![]() A contemporary of Ron Kauk and John Bachar, but completely ostracized for hanging on his home made SLCD’s to work moves or sections of the hard 5.12s. The first “hangdogger” we meet is Ray Jardine in the Valley. ![]() ![]() Seriously, it’s a wonder some of them could still climb with the weight of their huge brass balls. This also included installing bolts on lead, either by finding suitable perches or hanging precariously from hooks on tiny nubbins. If you fell, you started over, be it 30 feet or 3,000 feet off the deck. The ethic of the era was still to do everything from the ground up. The initial installation of bolts was to either create a safe anchor or protect long, run-out stretches between obvious placements. ![]() He quickly goes over the decade of evolution from pins and pitons to the expanded use of chocks and stoppers in 60’s up to the start of the installation of bolts on some choice routes in the 70’s. We touch on the classic locations like Yosemite Valley and the Stonemasters, Joshua Tree before the yuppies invaded, and Smith Rock with the legendary Alan Watts from it’s infancy to it’s ultimate crowning achievement, but we also make stops in Colorado, Seattle, and even the Gunks. ![]()
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